Off Road Forums On Planet4x4 banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got a ford 8.8 for the rear end of my wrangler. My questions is this.
I am going to be installing it soon and am up in the air about if I should go ahead and do the spring over when I put it in or should I just put it in and do the lift later. The major issues are these. No money for much more than the axle work (ring and pinion) but I could swing it. And, what seems like more of an issue, no money at all for the tires I would want. Would it look :gay: beyond all reason with 5 inches of spring over and 31's or would it be ok? Also, if I did do the spring over now any rough guesses on the least expensive I could do it for but still do it right. ie. new perches, ubolts, etc. I don't want to piece it together but I am on a budget so I can only do the minimums now. Any input is welcome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Lift :thumb: :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,267 Posts
stock pile parts for your SOA lift. dont do anything twice, it is not worth it

doesnt the 8.8 have 3.73's? You could use it without lift if the gears are the same as your d30. That would basically be just welding on spring perches, getting half of a new dshaft and run what you got. Dont see the purpose of the 8.8 with the 31's though.

You have a great start and some fantastic parts, just be patient, that is the hardest part.
 

·
Site Supporter
Joined
·
2,286 Posts
IMHO if you can swing it do the lift at the same time. I don't have much expreince with wrangler springovers but some of the major issues never seem to get addressed like the axle wrap that it creates and don't do it until you have the money to do the steering right. With that said if you need a hand let everyone know. BTW it would look :gay: beyond all reason with only 31s but what the hell the important poeple ( us) all know you will get bigger tires later :rotfl: :rotfl:
 

·
Site Supporter
Joined
·
2,286 Posts
gripguru said:
. Dont see the purpose of the 8.8 with the 31's though.
.
Cause it sucks when you break a Dana 35 it really sucks when it is in the winter 15 miles in the backcountry and that was on 31s. :rotfl: :rotfl:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
781 Posts
I just finished a spring over on a CJ 7, you'll need a 4" drop pitman arm, 4 spring perchs, lengthen both drivelines, 4 new shocks and possibly mounts (not sure an a YJ?), extended brake lines, new u-bolts, traction bar (highly reccomended!), you shouldn't need to turn the knuckles unless you want to use lift springs with the SOA. That's a grand total of about $600 w/o the traction bar, and $900+ with, and labor on top of that, this is not something I would do untill I had all the funds available when I started, and then some, there is always something that comes up that you weren't planning on :deal:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,268 Posts
I second Steve's opinion... get the parts...ALL the parts, have some cash just in case, THEN do the swap. You'll save yourself alot of trouble and headaches that way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
gripguru said:
You have a great start and some fantastic parts, just be patient, that is the hardest part.
Patience IS the hardest part. Maybe I should put the axle in and wait on the lift till tax time. I'd have the money then. It really isn't that far away. I would like to get it in though. The gearing would be nice. With the 4.11's I'd be at 111:1.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
blazinzuk said:
gripguru said:
. Dont see the purpose of the 8.8 with the 31's though.
.
Cause it sucks when you break a Dana 35 it really sucks when it is in the winter 15 miles in the backcountry and that was on 31s. :rotfl: :rotfl:
My thoughts exactly. My build attitude is drivetrain first then lift. No point in putting on 35's just to break the axles the second you touch the dirt. Now that I have the drivetrain pretty much ready to roll, I am looking into the lift. I could use the money I have now to put a locker in the axle. Most of the stuff around here doesn't need a super amount of clearance and with winter coming the locker would keep me from getting stuck in the snow as much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
AH said:
blazinzuk said:
gripguru said:
. Dont see the purpose of the 8.8 with the 31's though.
.
Cause it sucks when you break a Dana 35 it really sucks when it is in the winter 15 miles in the backcountry and that was on 31s. :rotfl: :rotfl:
My thoughts exactly. My build attitude is drivetrain first then lift. No point in putting on 35's just to break the axles the second you touch the dirt. Now that I have the drivetrain pretty much ready to roll, I am looking into the lift. I could use the money I have now to put a locker in the axle. Most of the stuff around here doesn't need a super amount of clearance and with winter coming the locker would keep me from getting stuck in the snow as much.
Amen to that I did it the other way around put the lift and tires on stock axles.....and anyone who wheels with me can tell you that 30 will NOT hold up I went through two sets of shafts countless spiders and finally bent the housing ... long story short...took it to steve and had him put in the 8.8 ...thanks steve its still runnin strong locked on 35” MTRs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did you have problems with the 30 or the 35 or both. I don't have anything to replace the 30 with and am planning on keeping it until I have some major problems with it. I've heard it will hold up well but that it isn't the greatest. I am not going to put a locker in the front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,267 Posts
AH said:
gripguru said:
You have a great start and some fantastic parts, just be patient, that is the hardest part.
Patience IS the hardest part. Maybe I should put the axle in and wait on the lift till tax time. I'd have the money then. It really isn't that far away. I would like to get it in though. The gearing would be nice. With the 4.11's I'd be at 111:1.

Dont mismatch the gears. I only recommend installing it now if you dont have to buy gears. I put a detroit and 4.88s in mine, and run 38's on it now. It isnt cheap, but worth waiting to do it right ONCE. With that manual tranny, your gear ratio will be just fine for the really hard rocks and the snow when you are done. Step to a taller tire and a deeper gear ratio and you will love it. The 30 is tough, alot tougher than the rear 35, but I didnt have any confidence in it. I bought a 79 f250 RCD44, it was basicaly bolt on, but I chose to narrow it for my rig. Someday when I really start breakin stuff, I am sure I will wish I went 60, but I still am going strong on factory axleshafts and spicer ujoints.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am not planning mismatching the gears. I will be putting 4.11's in front and behind. Then when I want to replace the front axle, whatever I replace it with I will put 4.11's in as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
oh sorry ... ya know I get to typing so fast and forget what the hell i am talking about.. I ment 35 :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: no problems with the 30 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,267 Posts
AH said:
I am not planning mismatching the gears. I will be putting 4.11's in front and behind. Then when I want to replace the front axle, whatever I replace it with I will put 4.11's in as well.

I think you should go lower. 4.56 would be ideal for 35's on you rig. (carbed 6cyl ~4K lbs)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
4.56 ? that is really low. I'd be crawling at 123:1

Tranny 1st is 6.32
t-case is 4.3
r/p 4.11

111:1

besides the t-18 is a 4 speed and 4 th is 1:1 so I'd be interested to see what 4.56 is like on the highway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,267 Posts
dont just look at the crawl ratio, match your gears to your tire size

compare a 31 to a 35 at your crawl ratio
now compare your 31's with 4.11's
there is more to it, just like you were saying about the highway speeds -
I was thinking about all those factors.

What size tire do you plan for?

It will also matter what tire you get as well, for instance my 36tsl's would not rotate above 65 without major bouncing - my 38sx are newer and better balanced, they are willing to rotate to 70mph without vibes

here is a really good calculator to compare and contrast:

http://www.dfw-tx4wd.org/Tech-Dept/Tech-Dept/gears.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That is a pretty slick site. With 4.56's I could would be running

68 mph at 3000 rpm's

and with 4.11's

76 at 3000.

So, if I understand you correctly, the 4.56's would still give me the speed I need on the highway even if I go with larger tires. Basically a bit of added torque without a large trade off on driveability.
 

·
semi-pro hack
Joined
·
1,202 Posts
Also keep in mind that those figures might be off due to the actual tire size after it is mounted and installed on the vehicle. example a 39.5 doesn't measure 39.5 after it is mounted and installed it is more like 38"
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top