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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
Rippin out the 10 & 12 bolts from the blazer and slammin in a 14 bolt and a dana 44 (both 8 lug) from a 3/4 ton p/u. Got a 6 inch lift on the blaze already and was wonderin if my ubolts, brakes, steering, etc. are even gonna work before I get started. Trying to get everything I need ahead of time instead of having my junk torn apart sittin around waiting on a few parts. Also, I'm moving the dana 44 forward 1 1/2 inches with zero rates. Steering problems from this? Don't think there'd be but just makin sure. Thanks for the input. :beer:
Jessie
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
You know where I can find the right ubolts locally that will fit? Saw the brake line problem yesterday. Prolly just order some new stainless braided. Wut do you mean by a ujoint conversion? You mean the rear driveshaft going from the transfer to the 14b? Custom driveshaft should solve this, right? :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
 

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Wrench Wench
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If your not using cross over steering, moving your front axle that far forward is gonna screw with your steering. Your drag link is short enough as it is, and making it any shorter with that much lift, two words, BUMP STEER, also, it will probably steer one way great, and the other way not worth a shit. Plan your steering correction.

Also, front driveshaft is already stretched from the 6 inch lift, so moving it forward is gonna stretch passed it's operating area. Just ask Muddinmike what happens when you extend your driveshaft past its means and put power to it!!! Again, this is assuming you still have the stock shaft and not a lengthend one already.

Maybe switch the axle with the zero rates in the middle position, then fix the steering and driveshaft issues, then go back and move 'em forward later on. That way your not having to do everything all at once.



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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info Lump, wanna do it right the first time. What's all involved going to crossover? Pain in the ass to do? Spendy? My goal is to have it done and workin for the spring/summer. So taking a little longer and doin her right is my main concern.
 

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I'm doing this on a '72 blazer frame, ditto on what everyone else said and, I had to relocate the spring perches to match the frame width on the 14 bolt, you can set your pinion angle at the same time, the newer blazers may have a wider frame :thumb:
 

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Wrench Wench
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What you'll need is:

dropped front bump stops so you don't smash the Xover drag link
Pitman arm from a 2wd
Passenger side flat top knuckle, machined and tapped for new studs
Passenger side steering arm, can be found at about all off road places(check with HBRK, bet they have one)
And a new custom drag link tube to go all the way to the passenger side now.

You can also take the tie tod and move it up higher for an added expense if you need to.

Look aroung the net, you will find pics and setups all over, I'm sure that some guys around here have it, Rockpunks blazer is setup similar, except he's rockin the 60 up front, the use a different steering arm.

Also, ya ditching the sway bar?? Cause that mounts to the spring plates and the mounts would have to be modified to retain it.



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Just remembered, 4wd steering boxes aren't splined at the pitman shaft, and 2wd's are, so you are gonna need a 2wd box and arm, should be easy to find. In my experience rebuilding boxes, the 2wd's are always in so much better shape anyways. May as well tap the new box while you have it out for possible later using with a steering ram.

Also, the two sized ujoint is the way to go till you put on a SYE and a CV rear shaft, no sense in spending your money on a custom shaft for the rear if your just gonna leave the slip yoke in the tcase (that's the weak point). If your still rocking the 208( :banghead: ) then I have a buddy who is hurting for some cash and has a 241c right drive(problably let it go for $100 or less), a stronger bolt-in tcase. The 14 bolt pinion snout is a little longer that a 12 bolt, so it will push your drive shaft forward a little bit.



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semi-pro hack
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steering box $40-50
drop arm $70-80
steering arm $90
steering arm install kit $25
machined knuckle $?????
drag link $90
 

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"Doing it right the first time" means different things to different people. It all depends what your end goal is.

For example, if your end goal is a full-hydro steering, then investing in crossover would be a waste of money and not be "doing it right the first time". I spent $500+ on a Detroit locker in my 9.5" 14B s/f when I shattered the spiders. If I had been "doing it right the first time", I would have been shopping for some 2.5-ton Rockwell's. Then there's doublers, 52's, etc, etc, etc. Where do you see your rig in 5 years? I'm sure we have all done this :banghead: when looking back over the years. We thought we were "doing it right the first time" too???

I would install your new axles (congratulations, btw) using the zero-rate up front, but leave it in the stock position. Run it for a litte while and decide on steering, driveshafts, etc. You can easily move your axle forward when you're ready.

Like previously said, moving your axle 1.5" forward will force crossover steering & lengthened shaft.

Have you thought about installed longer shocks up front using the Ford towers? I found this to be one of the best mods for the money and fun to do. I would be more than happy to help you with this. I really enjoyed installing mine and have never regretted it. C-ya on the trail!
 

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not to be a post hijacker or anything, but I'm doing a 4" lift on mine as some of you know, and I have the ford towers and the rancho rs9000 shocks, 9012? i think?, but haven't installed them yet.. can you shoot me some pics of your shock mounts top and bottom, as well as front and rear so I can see your setup?
Thanks :thumb:
 

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You're never gonna have to worrie 'bout your rear end again. :thumb: Definiatly a good swap. I would recomend grinding the big ole' lip off of the 14 bolt before you bolt it under your truck. Yea, its not necesary, but you WILL drag that thing like a boat ancor!

Along with new u-bolts (bigger axle tube) you need to obtain some spring plates with the wider holes for the wider u-bolts. A buddy of mine got some at Jalopy Jungle a couple months ago for less than ten bucks. Theres a spring shop in Meridian that makes u-bolts to whatever size you want. I think they charge like 40 bucks for four.

You should be able to use the same calipers that are on your truck now so you wouldn't need to change the lines if you already have the lift on. I would still recomend steel braided brakelines cause reconnecting your brakelines so they dangle under the frame is a little bootleg. whistle

The conversion u-joint lets you bolt the smaller half ton u-joint on your old driveline to the bigger 3/4 ton yoke on the axle. Bigger u-joints would be stronger, but this will get you rollin for 20-30 bucks. I agree with moving your axle forward and doing crossover at the same time. Crossover also opens the door to way more flex and sharper turning. The stock steering setup is a big limiting factor. Now having said that, a Detroit in the rear will take you more places than crossover steering. :mrgreen:

What you planning for wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
:thumb: Sweet! Thanks for the info guys...I think. he he.. Knew I was opening a can of worms but it looks like a dozen nightcrawlers. :scared: For wheels I finally found some 15x10's from Bart wheels. It was a pain findin 8 lug 15" wheels used and even new, but I got some on the way. I went with 15's cause my swamps are 36x12.5x15 and they still gotta plenty of use left in them. Then I'll prolly step up in tire size after that. You really think my old calipers will work off my 10 bolt? The calipers/brakes/ rotors look much bigger then whats on my 10 bolt. If they'll work that'll be sweet cause It looks like I might have alittle grindin to get the 15" wheels over those 3/4 ton brakes. I'm strippin these axles from the parts truck I got myself, so I have the old spring plates, brake lines, etc. Are you saying I need new/different spring plates? Oh yeah, swaybar went in the garbage day of the lift which was 2 weeks after I bought the blazer. :thumb: Detroit's a little outta my price range, found a spool for the 14b at complete off-road, but weldin her up is prolly more pocket book friendly for me. How bout just movin the 44 forward 1" instead 1 1/2, adjust my drag link to compensate for now (don't wanna max it out but I do got about 2 1/2" of adj), slappin in the longer front driveshaft, and whatever's needed in the rear for the 14b.
Course I wanna do it right the first time, but I'm sure you will all agree when I say is the project rig ever really done? And doin it right the first time DOES have it's limits. Like the financial kind, unfortunately. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :beer:
 

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14blt

jess the u joint at napa/ i think the # is 447 i use one in mine. try this one first, just match it up with the old one . as long as the caps are the same on the drive shaft and the other ones fit well in the 14blt yoke do r.
 

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If you have the spring plates from the 3/4 ton you're good to go. :thumb:

You can compare the calipers if you have the parts truck, but I think the only difference is the 3/4 ton rotor and backing plate (what caliper bolts to) is a bigger diameter. And the style brake line of fitting changed somewhere between the 70's era and 80's era.

The amount of grinding depends on the amount of backspacing. The 15" wheels I have are some where between 3.5 to 4 inches of backspacing and I had to grind for hours to make them fit. (I ran them on my 78' 3/4 ton with 36" swampers for 3 years before I got my K30) But my buddy that just did the axle swap got some 15" wheels from Summit that are only 2.5" of backspacing and didn't have to grind at all. They made his tires stick out way further than his old wheels and they'll probly be hard on his wheel bearings and ball joints.

I'm for welding. :thumb: Had the 14 bolt welded in my 78' for over a year and never had any probs. The only bad thing is it hurt my turning radius. Welded/spool makes your rig want to "push" straight. And my tires would chirp when pulling into a parking spot but who cares about that. :mrgreen: Having had the Detroit I have now for over a year I can say I like the Detroit better than the welded. Don't notice it unless I gas it while making a sharp turn on pavment and of course I notice it pullin my butt up the trail. I got mine from 4 wheel parts for something like $390.

I agree with Lumpdog about the crossover. I have been stuck in a wash ('78 w/stock style steering) with my driver side tire at full droop (4" tuffcountry EZ and no swaybar) the steering wheel turned all the way to the right and my wheels pointed straight. If I had been able to turn to the right I would probly have been able to get out on my own. doah That was one of the reasons I decided to go crossover when I got a D60. So I guess that goes along the lines of where you see your rig in the next couple of years. For me, I waited to do crossover on my '78 cause I knew I wanted a D60 and didn't want to dump any money in the the D44 as far as machined knuckle and such. I know Doug has wheeled his truck alot with stock style steering and wasn't in any hurry to switch to crossover last I talked to him. I would say do the axle swap and weld up the rear and go WHEELIN' and have fun for the summer, then on your next go around of mods keep crossover high on the list. But, moving your axle forward and shortining the already short draglink is only going to hinder your steering. Hope my blabin helps, just my 2 cents. :thumb: -Nate
 

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Wrench Wench
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The brake calipers should fit just fine, I have my 91 half ton calipers bolted to my 73 3/4 ton axle with no problems. The calipers changed from a standard banjo bolt to a metric bolt in the 80's, so as long as you use the brake lines and calipers for your year, replacement lines will work fine.

I totally agree with Nate (his .02 is definitely worth listening to). Get the axles swapped, and have some fun with it, find out from use what you want next, I'll bet it is the crossover!



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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Lots of useful info, Thanks guys... :thumb: Prolly gonna slap in the zeros at "zero" and ponder my next move. Thinkin the extra inch of lift itself should help keep my tires off the rear of the wheelwell. :banghead: That was my main reasoning behind movin the axle. I can always lower bumpstops too, doah but that's not real appealing to me. Luckily my D44 is a flat knuckle so I'm set there. I got/had a spool in the 12 bolt and loved it! I know what you mean Nate bout the turnin radius, but I can live with it. Personally I think it's kinda kick ass to chirp a tire here and there. :mrgreen: :rotfl: So...if I can use the 1/2 ton calipers off my 10 bolt then I shouldn't have to do any grindin, right? Cause the 1/2 ton calipers are much smaller then the 3/4 ton. By the way my wheels are 15x10 Barts w/3.5 B.S. Another question to throw at you guys: what's the better swap (rear axle speakin) 14 bolt or Dana 60? Just wonderin other's opinion. I'm pretty sure I'd prefer the strength of the 14 over the clearance of the 60, but how bout serviceability? Like which is easily to repair/maintain? I know how the 14b operates (full float speakin) but how similar is the d60?. Same setup or what? Prolly coulda started a new thread over this but axles is axles, right? :banghead: Hmmmmmm......The possibilities, like the woman says: Isn't it done yet? :beer: :beer:
 

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1/2 ton

if you are using 1/2 ton brake parts you still must grind the mount ears if the off set of your rims is not right, maybe. call me before you do this. :mrgreen:
 

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The 14b is inherently stronger due to larger axleshaft and gear size, but the options available for tweaking the 14b are limited. The 60 can be made stronger than the 14b ca, in most areas, but it will cost ya....lots.... I vote for the 14b just for sheer brute strength and inexpensive simplicity. don't forget, you can shave about 1.5" off that baby too....
 
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