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Which Suspension System?

  • Leaf Springs

    Votes: 14 51.9%
  • Coils with CAGE control arms

    Votes: 5 18.5%
  • Air shox with CAGE control arms

    Votes: 1 3.7%
  • 4 link it and forget it

    Votes: 7 25.9%
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, here's the deal. I'm building an 83 Yota long bed for rocks mainly and a little bit of general offroad abuse. I've already decided on the rear suspension,(All Pro long travel springs), but I'm thinking about doing something different for the front. I like the Ford twin I beam frontends a lot, except for they have c-bushings, which cause binding, and have a just plain crappy setup at the rear of the I beams. SO, CAGE offroad has these really nice tubular control arms with monstrous heims on the end of the control arm. These are really nice. Big heims mean no bind. This I like. A lot. And there is a weld-on bracket for the axle, so no C-bushings. So, with the BS aside, here is what we're looking at, and cost is a little bit of a factor.
1. Leaf springs in front
2. Coils and CAGE arms in front
3. CAGE arms and air shox
4. Four link it, and spend every last penny I have to do it.
The first three options are really close on price, within a few hundred bucks, so that the price difference isn't really a factor. Option four, well, that's expensive and that's all there is to it. Tell me what you think. I'm leaning towards the CAGE arms and coils. but my decision is subject to change. Thanks for voting and have a great day.:thumb:
 

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I have seen the cage arms in mags. and reaaly thought hard about using them. But I allready had a pretty good base for a link system. If I was starting from scratch I would probably give cage(I thought it was gage) a trie.Good luck!
 

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Ask IBjeepin how the ride and wheeling difference there is between leafs and a link suspension...

Im not sure I would buy the big dollar heims, I would use superflex joints from RE, and maybe some coil over coils.

Here is a pic of what i did with Johns jeep.





This is with leafs up front and coils in the rear.




Look me up, we can talk about options for you.
 

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Shane-

remind me to ask you about links and driveability.... future plans and all...
 

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I second lumpy... rears in front on a yota will flex all you want em to and still retain a nice ride and its a hell of alot cheaper... thats more bucks to put in a doubler or gears or tires or whatever...
 

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I am running rears up front and chevy's out back with a few other tricks and it flexes plenty and I'm running 37's now. Put the money into the cases, gears and lockers....
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I can't believe all these people looked at this thread and then only 9 of them voted.:darn: :lame: C'mon guys, tell me what all y'all think I should do. It's not much of a poll without a few good arguments.:rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: J/K
 

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leaf springs. rears and 63s. there is alot of tech on many sites and it lets you have money for gearing upgrades, like the rest have said. that is what i plan on doing when i get back!

what i have found out in my travels is.....

locked front and rear with LOW gearing will be the best thing. have seen unflexy rigs with doublers and diff. gears do quite impressive things. also think about aftermarket birfs onless you would like some practice changing them on the trails, especially if you get into doublers.

and no matter what rout you go....POST UP PICS!! i need ideas!:thumb:
 

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depends on how quick you want to get out wheeling. Leaf springs for Toyotas are flexy, rears or all pro or trail gears marlin all those guys. Using those springs in the rear and similar springs in the front gives you some balance. I think a rig that has a flexible suspension that has similar travel front and rear is best for an all around wheeler. Even in a link suspension your uptravel will be limited by the Toyotas heigth, how much you cut the wheelwells and how far you move the axle forward, which also causes you to move the steering box (not too hard). Links are going to cost you more than you think.

I also don't think the real advantage of links is the travel. It is the axle control.
I would go leaf springs for now. you will be out wheeling sooner, dead reliable and you can mull over going to coils while you are out wheeling in the real world instead of web wheeling. :thumb::thumb:
 

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Triangulated four links on a front end don't work with a steering gear box. You could do a three link with panhard bar. Unless you want to go full hydro steering as well. Even at that, I think 3 links with panhard work better up front.
 

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Leaf springs and then go wheelin. (I even voted) :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Maybe I should have said I'll be running full width D60s front and rear, with hydro assist, 6.17s, spool in back and ARB in front. Also running Marlin doubler with 4.7 in crawl box and 2.28 in t-case. I do plan on moving the axle foward 2-4 inches, which is why I was leaning toward the CAGE radius arms and coils idea. Also moving the steering box forward, too. (obviously)I was going to have custom springs done by Alcan,(this was suggested by Marlin himself) but with the cost of the springs, and Sky's full width conversion crossmember, I'm only $300 away from radius arms and coils. Not a big fan of running rears in front, and All Pro xtreme travel springs flex a lot better than 63s. SO, now that I'm done saying that, keep the suggestions coming. The more irons in the fire, the better. Happy wheeling!:thumb:
 

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Are you driving to the trail or towing? Sounds like this is a dedicated trail rig. What size tires will you run? What heigth do you want it to sit at? Most guys that do link suspensions on toy's end up making them sky high. It takes a bit more work to keep them low but it can be done.

I went with leafs because they're simple, handle very predictibly and don't break the bank. I also DD mine. Leafs are also a lot easier to set up properly then a coil suspension. You can check out the build we did over at Total Off Road Design last fall. We moved my front axle a good 5 inches forward and tubbed the cab. I've got room for 40's right now, with Dana 60's and some neutral offset wheels I'd be close to fitting 42's with a couple tweaks.

http://www.planet4x4.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5161

I'd think about linking up the rear before linking the front. It's a lot easier to keep the front low that way, it's cheaper then linking both ends (rear springs cost a lot more then front springs) and you get the benefits of the axle control Blazinzuk mentioned. Those 60's will exert a lot of wrap on leaf springs, particularly in the rear without a traction bar (and you'll end up hating 63" chevies). If you're going to run a link sus, think about it in the rear before the front.

Depending on the weight of the vehicle I'd look at allpro's 3" buggy springs for the front, or Sky's secret springs they've been working on, heck, even trail marts springs work. Build a crossmember that will allow you to move the axle a minimum of 4" forward, do a little tubbing on the wheel well and you've got room for 40's or bigger if you do it right.
 

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Triangulated four links on a front end don't work with a steering gear box. You could do a three link with panhard bar. Unless you want to go full hydro steering as well. Even at that, I think 3 links with panhard work better up front.


why do you say that???


I have hydro assist but still running the Scout gearbox and with my new 4 link.........I can turn the wheels at full articulation


I really like my four link up front so far. I dont know if it was worth the money yet but we will see

1 1/4 heims---- $500

DOM tubing----$500

coils-----$200

misc. bolts and flat bar----$150

It seems like im forgetting some stuff but thats about what I spent on mine recently. Isnt that cage kit like $1000????

I say leafs and go wheel. If you like the cage kit.......order the coils and build the bars yourself. I bet youll save 400
 

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Also..........see how centered my axle still is under the Scout?? With a panard bar your axle will move back and forth under articulation. You have to make the panard as long as possible......or........just triangulate and get rid of the stupid thing
 

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Also if you do a link suspension in the front you may have to move exhuast oil pan engine you know small stuff like that.
On Chestons it wasnt a good idea to do a panhard bar because of where the coil buckets were and where the steering box mounts. So a double traingulated 4 link it was. I don't see why they won't work with a steering box. If it is not designed right it won't work no matter what.

I still say leaves unless you have the money the 4 link is expensive more than you think. Of course you could use cheaper stuff and do it for less but the links go through alot of stress. Using cheaper stuff is only asking for stuff to break.

Once again the big advantage of a 4 or 3 link is the axle control not the ability to flex.
 
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