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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay I want some opionons here I will be getting the steel to build the rocker skids on the blazer what thickness should I go with. I know 1/4 is a good thickness but I am welding directly to the body. I want to know if anyone out there thinks that 1/8 or even .120 wall would work. These will be a permenant part of the body and I don't know if I can weld 1/4" thick steel to the probably 18 gauge steel properly Also these will have tubing welded onto them that will look like a regular rocker skid but the square stock will replace my rocker panels :rotfl: :rotfl:
 

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sorry eric but if your going to weld these to the body what is the point. They will just be as strong as your body. I would weld the sliders to your frame. Cut your rockers out slap some square type tubing in place with legs welded to the frame, then add some tubing off of that and your set. It would be a hell of a lot stringer in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The way full topper blazers rockers are set up the rockers will be strong enough to handle just about anything I throw at them I kind of have a box underneath the floor plus I will be running kind of a reinforcment from the door sills everthing just works out kind of nice. Its also because of the boxes that I don't just fun it off the frame compared to a half top blazer I would lose about 3" of clearance running it off the frame just because of the extra reinforcement in the body. THose are my reasons for going off the body. :rotfl: :rotfl:
 

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Welding them to the body does work out pretty well. The stonger steel takes the hit and then distributes the load over the rest of the body. I considered this in the latest go around but decided to go with the more integrated system. I didnt want the body held that rigidly to the frame. Now I wonder. I see a lot of flex between the windshield frame and the cage now. I might have to connect the two together.



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Going Postal
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In this paticular case it works. What you do is you actually cut out the entire rocker panel to the point where you lose the door sill on the outside of the door seal and notch into the body structure mounts underneath. The square steel tube becomes the rocker which can take the hit and puts the loading though the whole length of the side.

Some pics of this

I have seen people even cut up to just below the door hinge and behind for a "BoatSide" effect.

Now if you were talking about just putting some diamond plate on the fender, well, I would have to agree with you.



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Test and proved that it works fine. I think that my truck weighs more than most rigs and I have had no problems with this set up and mine are just bolted on not welded. I have set the WHOLE truck on both rockers pretty hard and everything held just fine. :thumb:
 

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This setup has worked for years on rigs with good trail abuse with no problems. I have to go with what I see on this one.

Besides, your thinking of your jeep, If you had a real rig like a blazer, you wouldnt have to worry about things breaking. So I guess I see why you don't like it. :finger:

:rotfl:



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personally, I agree with Paul. that is alot of stress on the body and the body mounts... and as for a real trail rig, Matt, weren't you just telling me awhile ago that you kinda wish that you had gotten a TOYOTA!!!!!! :thumb: :finger:
 

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:roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
 

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Mr.TRD said:
personally, I agree with Paul. that is alot of stress on the body and the body mounts... and as for a real trail rig, Matt, weren't you just telling me awhile ago that you kinda wish that you had gotten a TOYOTA!!!!!! :thumb: :finger:
:rotfl: :rotfl: :finger:


I used to laugh at Toys untill I saw yours in action and kick my butt in the sand and the snow.

I wouldnt mind a strait axle version for just pooping around and stuff. I've been keeping my eyes open for the right deal.



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:finger:

Are you taking your rig up to Steve's this weekend for the Exo? 8)



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