Off Road Forums On Planet4x4 banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Plans for upgrades. *Upgrades in progress*

Well, I just thought I'd share what I have planned for the old CJ5 this winter. I thought we might get a little discussion going, so I'll just throw out some of the ideas I've been researching and plan on doing after Christmas.

Tranny swap-- I've been reading on swapping in a Ford T18 using a T176 bellhousing and a mainshaft and adapter from a Scout with a close ratio T18. I already have the bellhousing and scout parts. I have located a transmission I plan to buy after I get back from leave. Lumpdog has graciously offered to assist me in this swap by checking to make sure all parts are compatible before I get too far into this. Depending on how the transmission looks I may or may not rebuild, but it will be getting new seals and gaskets. I also want to see how difficult would be to flat belly it when I do this since I'll probably need a new crossmember anyway. Hopefully everything will go together easily, and I'll be sure to take pictures and post up once it's done. Doing this swap will gain me a huge advantage in gearing taking me from an approximate 3:1 first to a 6.32:1 first. Once it's all said and done I'm estimating the cost of swapping in the trans will be around $450. Not too bad considering an adapter kit would cost more than that.

T-case gearing-- The crappy 2:1 gearing of the stock D20 case is pretty pitiful. The D20 gears from the early Bronco can be swapped in when mixed properly with D18 gears. Doing this would give me a low range of 2.46:1. That's nothing to brag about, but it will be about a 25% gear reduction and I have located some gears I think I'm going to be getting for around $200 shipped. This is advantageous because I really don't want to put a lot of money into this transfer case. Once it gets to the point that I need lower gears I'll probably be going much more extreme and will want to upgrade to a stronger case with better gearing offered (a la Atlas :thumb:). Depending what it looks like once I tear into it I may end up rebuilding, which will raise the cost of this upgrade, but should still be around $300. I'll probably try to do a twin stick mod while I'm in there. Like I said before this is not a huge gearing reduction, but it is a lot cheaper than doing the Teralow and maybe even a little stronger.

Extend the wheelbase-- I've been doing a lot of reading on this and I think I'm going to go with the 85-88 Toyota pickup/4runner rear springs all around. I have found 1 set, but I still need a second. With this mod and the tranny swap I will most likely end up needing new or different driveshafts. I may end up having my stock shafts lengthened, but I'll be looking into that more once I get a little closer to needing them. Since I really have no idea how much the driveshafts will cost I don't know what this will end up costing, but I'm hoping for not much more than $300.

Finishing propane conversion-- I have had it running on propane for about 10 months, but I still have a little tweaking to do. I don't have a fuel lockoff either, but I'm bidding on one on ebay so hopefully I get that. I got a mount for my tank this week, so I can properly secure my tank. I think I need to upgrade my ignition system as well. The high octane rating of propane makes it harder to ignite than gasoline and I don't think my stock 73 ignition system is up to the challenge. I plan on doing the TFI swap. To do this I'll have to get a Motorcraft distributor from a late 70 to mid 80 AMC V8. I'm watching one on ebay now that I hope I can get for fairly cheap. When I do this I'd like to switch to an MSD ignition box, but that will depend on what kind of deal I can get. I think I need to get a higher heat range sparkplug, but I don't know much about sparkplug heat range so I need to do a little more research. I'm hoping the total cost of getting this all done will be no more than $300.

Once all that is done I'll probably be done for a little while, but there is definitely more I want to do to it. Axle upgrades will depend on how often I break. I'd like to upgrade axles now, but that is a little to far out of my price range with all the other things I have planned right now. It is most likely next on my list followed by larger tires.

So what do you think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just a little update on the parts gathering phase. Things I have purchased to date.

OBA setup: $75
Tank bracket: $56
Fuel Lockoff: $17.49
MSD 6T ignition box: $133.51
MSD 8827 TFI coil: $29
AMC V8 Motorcraft dist: $40
D20 gears: $150
Scout T18: $50
Bellhousing: $30

Hopefully I can get everything gathered put together by the time the weather gets good enough to have fun outside rather than being freezing and wet.
 

·
Going Postal
Joined
·
4,026 Posts
Let me know if you have any questions about the OBA setup, wiring or modding the bracket for a small block or anything. ;)



Planet | 4X4 | Forum
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Matt, but I think I have it figured out. If I run into any problems I'll let you know.

Picked up a couple more things today.

Ford T18: 183.75
Chevy Luv and Busted 4Runner Leafs: 52.50
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I tore into the transmissions today with the help of lumpdog. I pulled the output out of the scout trans and completely disassembled the ford trans for cleaning. It looks like everything is going to work as planned. I'll take some pics tomorrow to post up. I'm planning on taking everything up to base to pressure wash and clean up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I got the transmission all together today, with assistance again. It all went together really easy. I clocked the t-case adapter up a little while I was at it since I had to drill and tap new holes in the back of the case. Here are a few pics.

Top shaft is the Scout shaft and the bottom shaft is the Ford shaft.

d 006 (Small).jpg

Adapter clocked up.

d 007 (Small).jpg

T-case bolted up to trans case showing how it is clocked up above the trans.

d 009 (Small).jpg

A look at the inside of everything going together.

d 010 (Small).jpg

The mainshaft all assembled ready to drop in.

d 011 (Small).jpg

Apparently I didn't get a picture of it all together, but I'm sure you know what a transmission looks like when it's assembled.

Edit: I'm going to do my best to get everything together saturday, as far as the trans goes anyway, and take it on the wild west run this weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The crappy old T15 is completely out. I got t-case out last night and started removing the floor. Tonight I did the rest. I don't know if I'll have it completely together for the run on Sunday, but I hope to have it at least driveable. It may be a little cold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, it's in finaly. Finished up a little over an hour and a half ago. It's going to be an early morning. Here are the pictures. We ended up having to shorten the rear d-shaft and lengthen the front by about 2.75 inches. Had all the welding done by MCWelding. He did a bang-up job. I can't wait to see how it does tomorrow. It went together too easy, so I'm a little curious.

in 001 (Small).jpg

in 002 (Small).jpg

in 003 (Small).jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, after not working on this thing for a couple of weeks I finally got off my butt, pulled the t-case and ripped it apart in the kitchen floor. I've got to take it to the hobby shop on base and take it to the steam cleaner.

While I'm in I'm gonna be putting in the gears and trying to figure out the twin stick. Anyone done a true twin stick on a 20 where you can go front l-n-h rear l-n-h, but not be able to put it in front low rear high or visa versa? I'm gonna be doing some measuring on the shift rails and see what I can find out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I think I got the twin stick figured out. Tomorrow I'll post some pictures with an explanation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
Just take out the pill you speak of and throw it away -- there ya go.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'd like to keep that little safety feature there so my transfer case doesn't accidentally get ripped apart by someone putting it in front high/rear low or the like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,119 Posts
The use of the Toyota rear springs are a good idea.....But stock ones are good for zuks...

CJ's are too heavy. With the weight of the CJ it is better to use some 2" lift Toyotas. You will bend and de-arch the stock ones pretty quick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
That was the way mine was done for a few years and never a problem, never could get it to go into high on one end and low on the other....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I got the transfer case together last night. After looking at and grinding the rails I discovered there was no way to make it foolproof, so I ground the rails like the pictures above. The only way I can get opposite gears is when I shift the rear to low I can shift the front to either low or high. Oh well. I hope to be able to take it out to lost trail this weekend. I still have a few things I to get done, but I'm hoping, since I have Friday off, I can get it all done by Sunday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Doug is right. Just by design you cannot have two ranges at once. Basicly we have what is called the "range" shifter and the other is the "mode" shifter. We just leave out the interlock limit ball or "pill" for twin stick applications on 18,20,and 300's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I don't know what kind of case you're thinking of, but mine does not have a range shifter and a mode shifter. It has a front output shifter, which controls low, neutral and high for the front output, and it has a rear output shifter, which controls low, neutral and high for the rear output. It is very possible on my case to have the front in low and the rear in high without the interlock pills. I can see on a dana 18 how you wouldn't be able to get them mixed up because the front and rear run off the same shaft. This is a quote taken from BillaVista's tech article on installing a TeraLow 3.15 gearset in a D20. Here is the link to the article link

Note that if you remove the interlock pill and twin-stick your case, there is the possibility to shift one axle into low gear and the other into high at the same time. This will quickly cause serious drivetrain damage (although I did try it briefly on a soft, loose surface, just to see what it was like.) Some folks may decide to rig up some sort of extra mechanism to allow twin -stick shifting while preventing the levers from being more than one position apart. I didn't bother, as the shift pattern arrangement would mean that to inadvertently shift into low-high or high-low, one stick has to be all the way forward, and one all the way to the rear - which is really obvious, and hard to do accidentally. Also - if the rig is in low-high or high-low, it's VERY obvious as it hops and spins and churns in a very unusual manner.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top