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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, fellow wheelers! I'm a Pocatello resident hoping to join you guys on the trails in the near future. I just completed some more work, and wanted to post my progress, like mad4mud.

Here's the scoop:
87 4Runner body, drivetrain, rear axle on 85 frame and solid front axle. Vented front disks from 82+ FJ40, IFS calipers, V6 master cylinder and brake booster. Marlin crossover steering system, with plated IFS steering box frame mounts. All-pro front springs, chevy pickup rear springs. 12 inch Bilstein 5150's in front, 14 inch in back. Toyota taco e-locker in rear, LandCruiser high pinion e-locker in front. 33x12.5 cheapo mudders. 40 Channel CB in dash. Driveshafts by High Angle driveline.

293_3_4.jpg

under_rear_800.jpg

fpumpkin800.jpg
View of the front e-locker

Right now it's my daily driver. The front and rear part-time lockers have proven useful in snowy conditions. Very slick/icy conditions... not so nice.

What's next? Well, I need to carry a spare tire and make lift points for my high lift jack, or the spare is useless. I have plans and materials for a rear bumper/tire carrier. Rock sliders on hand from marlin will go on next, followed by a home brew front bumper. Hopefully during the Christmas break.

After that? It's a toss-up between gears and a early 90s non turbo supra 6 cylinder motor. Should come close to bolting right in place of the old 4cylinder.

What are your suggestions for modifications?

The vechicle is mechanically reliable... starts immediately and doesn't leak a drip anywhere. Actually keeps up with traffic on the freeway - barely. If anybody is ready for some local wheeling, drop me a line! I'm all dressed up with no place to go!
 

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I'd like to see some pics of your front and rear spring setups... more the better!
looks like a very capable rig! only thing I would do is regear, bigger tires, and marlin doubler...after the tube work, I can't think of anything else it would need!
 

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The muffler clamps brackets on the back axle, is that for your shock mounts??
 

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I saw you pulling out of CAL Ranch yesterday. I admit I checked out you rig as we drove by.
 

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We are going to do a run this month. We are going to figure it out at the next meeting and you are more then welcome to show up. :thumb:

Its going to be at the Library meeting room at 7 pm on the 6th of December. I'll most likely make another post about it.

Rig looks nice. :deal:



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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
nate said:
The muffler clamps brackets on the back axle, is that for your shock mounts??
Note: I havn't had time to take any pictures yet... all of the following images and links from other web pages. I'll try to get pictures up this weekend... However, my landlord's garage is filling up with stuff fast....

Yep, that's the shock mounts. I'm a newbie when it comes to fabrication and such, so I went with bolt-on parts where possible. I got them from Budbuilt:

http://www.budbuilt.com/new/shock_mounts.html

This image shows the basic form. Mine use two exhaust clamps:

lowermount1.jpg

It's funny to note that my rear axle tube is 3 inches in diameter.... I'll bet some of you guys out there have exhaust pipes that big! Just don't snack on my little 4Runner while we're out on the trail. :)

The upper mount bolts to a tube that runs between the framerails, just a few inches foward of the rear axle:

P5140022.jpg

Front springs use the stock mounts. Converting an independent front suspension toyota to a solid axle usually involves cutting a hole in the frame for the rearward front spring mount, and welding a sleeve in. Some put a hanger below the frame. People with high stresses have written about frame cracks around the sleeve. I decided to avoid that problem, and used a stock 85 frame. The springs are Marlin Crawler 3 inch units.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/springs.html

My goal was to get a softer than stock ride, more articulation, and have the least lift possible. I diddn't want to ride high, as it reduces my sidehill angle, and increases my chances of a rollover. I also use a greasable shackle from All Pro Offroad that should add an inch. Total lift seems to be about five inches, though. However, my stock springs were concave before I replaced them. Spring to bumpstop clearance went from 1 3/8 inch to 3 inches.

Rear springs are the chevy units. Front mounts were cut off, and an aftermarket hanger welded in.

http://www.budbuilt.com/new/spring_hangers.html

The rear mounts use a technique I found on the web:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/chevyswap/

double_shackle.jpg

As you can see in the image, the stock chevy rear shackle is inverted, and a second homemade shackle connects to the stock spring mount. This allows for LOTS of axle droop.

edge_droop.jpg

Front shock mounts are Ford F-250 shock towers.

54.jpg

Clearing the Ford shock towers requires a body lift or cutting out the fender well. No body lift on my vehicle, so the sawzall came out to play :).

Now that I've got a decent suspension and lockers, I need a fresh mudpit to play in! Maybe I'll take a trip to the Diversion in Blackfoot if this snow melts. Wheee!
 

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hey thanks for all the info man! I just bought an 80 toy that I'm figuring out what to do with it...
 

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gripguru said:
good lookin start for your runner

I say forget about the motor swap, go with an additional tcase, or doubler. That 4cyl is fine unless it overheats.

I agree about the doubler. I have 5.29 and the doubler running 35" tires with the 4 cyl. It has lots of power on the trail and cruses down the road like stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
AJ Johnson said:
hey thanks for all the info man! I just bought an 80 toy that I'm figuring out what to do with it...
80 toy? As in 1980 Toyota or FJ80?

Drools at thought of owning an FJ-80

I'd sell my little Toy in a heartbeat for the chance to own an FJ-80
 

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is there a meeting tonight for sure?

"After that? It's a toss-up between gears and a early 90s non turbo supra 6 cylinder motor. Should come close to bolting right in place of the old 4cylinder."

im here at ISU at the auto program and a kid that is in here did that non turbo supra inline 6 swap and got rid of his 22re in his 94 toyota. hes still working out the wiring bugs but hell be at the meeting tonight with me if there is one...???
 

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I'd go gears then... really, the 22R has lots of power to move. If nothing else, just get a Cam off ebay for about $100 and headers and an aftermarket intake and weber carb...Cheaper than a motor swap will end up being, I think.
 

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AJ Johnson said:
I'd go gears then... really, the 22R has lots of power to move. If nothing else, just get a Cam off ebay for about $100 and headers and an aftermarket intake and weber carb...Cheaper than a motor swap will end up being, I think.
Dont even touch a toyota motor, they have gremlins as soon as you start to tinker withem. They are reliable until that point. I will certainly say nothing about power or getting it, but they will putt to the trail, go nonstop on the trail and make it home with little to no issues. (until they get overheated, then start looking for a replacement motor) :what:

Just my personal experience, but it seems to be the general consensus with everyone that has had that motor too.

Seriously build a doubler. :thumb::thumb:
 

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gripguru said:
Dont even touch a toyota motor, they have gremlins as soon as you start to tinker withem. They are reliable until that point. I will certainly say nothing about power or getting it, but they will putt to the trail, go nonstop on the trail and make it home with little to no issues. (until they get overheated, then start looking for a replacement motor) :what:

Just my personal experience, but it seems to be the general consensus with everyone that has had that motor too.

Seriously build a doubler. :thumb::thumb:

lol, I must have good luck with them... i've had several toys over the years and haven't ever had problems with them after modding them a bit...:what:
 

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we rebuilt my brothers 22r and it has been holding up just fine. we put 10:1 pistons in it and we cammed it and bored it .040 over. i guess well see how it does the stock motor lasted for a little over 350,000 miles before we put this one in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
AJ Johnson said:
lol, I must have good luck with them... i've had several toys over the years and haven't ever had problems with them after modding them a bit...:what:
Glad to hear somebody has had good luck with slightly modded 22r's.

Seeing as I will need a regear regardless of whether I get an engine or not, I'll do that first. If I'm lucky, I could do it as soon as mid March (spring break).

I've done an engine swap, of a sort, about six years ago. Swapped between two 87 toys: a pickup with 22RE and auto tranny and a 4Runner with a 22re and manual tranny. No major mechanical stuff, just cutting a hole in the floor for the different tranny shifters. Electrical changes were some, about 40 splices to each harness. Things worked great. I saw one of them driving around just two months ago. He has never had a problem with my mechanical or electrical work.

My original plan with my current 4Runner was to spend a little $$ and get the engine more freeway friendly, with a cam replacement, until I could afford some gears. I bought a cam from engnbldr, and installed it. The vehicle stopped running after about 5 minutes. Turns out the cam to camshaft sprocket alignment pin had fallen out, allowing the camshaft to rotate in relation to the sprocket. I'm lucky that valves were not bent. The most entertaining part of that problem was dicovering the backfire through the intake manifold. My friend was leaning over the engine while I cranked...BOOM!

Unfortunately, I need to get my primary vehicle, a Nissan Maxima, fixed first... Last owner put in a cheapo clutch set, and the wings on the throwout bearing bent. Known affliction on this vehicle, I've learned. Oem parts don't have that problem. Yeah, throwout bearings are cheap, but I should replace the clutch, and the transmission, seeing as 1st and 2nd synchros are shot. Of course, this happened just as my fall semester was starting. lol. :darn:

In the near term, I'll get the bumpers and sliders built. After the car is fixed, I'll do gears, and maybe some engine mods. I *HOPE* to make it to moab next spring/summer. There's also Escalante National Staircase...

My primary desire for more engine power is for freeway drivability. I can't afford a tow rig, so it's got to haul it's own underpowerd arse around. The supra engine is attractive for it's power (200HP), wide power band, (relative) ease of swap, and it's Toyota. Yeah, I'll loose some low end lug... unless I go with a doubler.

However, I may just be happy with engine mods. I drove a 22re Turbo about a year ago. Even with that power robbing automatic tranny, it cruised at freeway speeds with little throttle. They put out about 145hp. A mildly modded 22re should be able to get 140 hp (cam, header, exhaust). If it feels good with appropriate gearing, that may well be that.

I'll also swap in a newer generation intake manifold and throttle body. I've got a 1st generation 22re, with the throttle body that angles downward. Supposedly, most of the 10hp gain in the 89 (88?) and later 22re is from the intake manifold and throttle body. I can see from casual observation that the later intake plenum has fewer obstructions inside.

As for the engine swap... I've read recently that most people end up spending lots of time tweaking them to keep them running well, sometimes at all. What have your experiences been with engine swaps? Are they reliable, and how much more work do they take to keep running, over stock?

Thanks for your suggestions!
 
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