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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry for being long winded but heres my issue. One of the farmers that I hunted their property passed away last year. I inturn was given a bunch of trucks by his wife. One of the trucks was his 1977 Chevy C20 race truck. All I knew about the motor was it was a 454 bored .60 over and thats it. So I take this engine and finally get it put in my 1 ton. After much hassle and pain the swap was completed and I have it running. With alot of help from Lumpdog and super dave helped too.


Issue one is cooling I put a new sensor in the block and hooked it up to the the stock wire. It now reads 260 all the time???? The truck originally had a 350 california emissions engine in it. I put an aftermarket gauge in the edelbrock intake and it reads 155 now. Put the temp gun to the maifold and it is reading 155 also. So is the truck running at 155??? I put a brand new 185 thermostat in it.


Issue two the engine has a massive cam. Lumpy goes to adjust the valves and bam it has solid lifters not hydralic. I found out from the farmers son in law that all he knows about the cam is it is a comp cam and he went to solid lifters because it was so dramtic of a cam that hydralic lifters would not work with this cam. Also this engine was built about 15 years ago. So what I am trying to find out is what settings do I need to adjust the valves to with a feeler gauge? They are currently set a .012 intake and .018 exhaust. Right now the truck runs great but it has noisy lifters/rockers like they are too loose. Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated. :bowdown:
 

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The cam card that came with my sollid said to run them 18-22. I run mine around the 18 range and they seem to be fairly quite. Built anouther stroker motor for my buddy that is running almost the same cam but he is using a different brand rocker arm and aluminum valve covers instead of cheap steel ones like mine and his always seems noise.
As far as yours goes are you checing them hot or cold? I'm asuming they are still iron heads and not aluminum?
I would check them warm the 12 seems a little tight to me.
What are you running for a trans/converter?
Big cams can realy suck in a 4x4 with big tires and a low stall speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is in my 1ton donor truck. I stole the axles to build the burb. I am running a SM465 so no stall for me. The heads are still iron. I am running 235/85 16s so it has plenty of power. I tried running aftermarket valve covers and the rockers actually hit the baffles. So I went back to the stock steel ones. I know with my burbs 383 stroker it is kind of noisy all the time so I was wondering if this engine just might run noisy. Like I said its hard to tell when the guy that built it is passed away.
 

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Lehi, solid cams usually clatter all the time anyway. Nothing real bad but you can usually always hear them. Even on the race car over open exhaust. I also agree with Fordman, your tolerances seem a little tight on the valve adjustment. A big cam with a stock converter is a pain to drive on the street. It will always want to creep on you when you are stopped and is hard to keep running when it is cold. You get real good at driving with two feet, but shouldn't be a problem you drive the same way in the rocks. Lumpy is right, change the stat and see if anything changes.
 

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Sounds like you need more than just our opinion/guesses of what you have. I would talk with someone who knows "race" engines. I don't know if he has the time to sit down with you to go over what you know you have and what you guess you have, but my engine builder (Pat Bratton - Moffitt & Bratton Racing Enterprises) has a wealth of knowledge he could share with you. You will need to get the block number off the block, head numbers and all the info you can think of to tell him about the engine (gear drive, carb make & size, intake manafold, exhaust, etc.). If you could take it to him to actually see and hear it would be even better. Remember that just standing there looking at the engine won't tell him much about what's inside but his ear is so fine tuned that he can tell a lot by just listening to it. Make sure you call and talk to him before you show up if you decide to see Pat. Best time to call is in the morning before 9am, that's when he does his phone thing before going out into the shop to start working on engines. It usually takes a few minutes for him to warm up to what you are talking about and may not be in the mood to give out FREE advise, but he might. Remember that building engines is how he makes a living.

If you decide to talk with Pat, it may help if you tell him that I told you to give him a try. Good luck. It sounds like you got your hands on a nice engine.:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Lehi, solid cams usually clatter all the time anyway. Nothing real bad but you can usually always hear them. Even on the race car over open exhaust. I also agree with Fordman, your tolerances seem a little tight on the valve adjustment. A big cam with a stock converter is a pain to drive on the street. It will always want to creep on you when you are stopped and is hard to keep running when it is cold. You get real good at driving with two feet, but shouldn't be a problem you drive the same way in the rocks. Lumpy is right, change the stat and see if anything changes.

I have the SM465 which is the chevy 4 speed manual with granny gear.:drive:
 

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I have the SM465 which is the chevy 4 speed manual with granny gear.:drive:

I knew that. Was thinking of the 4L60 when I read the post, It was early.
 
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