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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My Project

I started work this weekend on the XJ. this is the D44 front end. I did a lot of searching for ideas on how to do this, and desided it probably would be easiest to use the origanal spring mounts and build them up to be taller and stronger.
I haven't started on the upper link mounts yet, I am still cosidering going to a three link set up. 30 to 44 conversion 002 (2).jpg

30 to 44 conversion 003 (2).jpg

30 to 44 conversion 004 (2).jpg

30 to 44 conversion 005 (2).jpg

30 to 44 conversion 006 (2).jpg
Tell me what you think, good or bad.
Hopfully I can get this in tomorrow night. and start the sixty in the rear this weekend.
 

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:shocked:Nice welds man. What kind of a machine are you using? Oh and what size wire?:thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, the machine is a Harber frieght special, I think its Chicago electric, it does ok, I wasn't sure about using it on this, but gave it a shot and its seems to be doing fine.The wire is.035
 

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Do yourself a favor and box those LCA arm mounts in. I covered the stock 1/8"? steel with 3/16" and put a piece across the 2 sides as well. Helps to keep them from ripping off on rocks.
 

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I wondered about incorporating "lift" into the mopunt swap.
Will be following this thread closely, as I have just started the process of acquiring an 86 Waggy for a donor set of 44's.

Gets frustrating, so much cross talk, 30/35's are junk run a 44.
then you hear (read?) 44's are junk really if you plan on running 35 or larger, just start with a 60.

Glad to see someone else is doing what I want to do.
 

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Here's a pic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do yourself a favor and box those LCA arm mounts in. I covered the stock 1/8"? steel with 3/16" and put a piece across the 2 sides as well. Helps to keep them from ripping off on rocks.
Thanks Nate,I did kind off what you said. I was thinking of ways to make the week side of the mount stronger. I moved them up also so the were behind the axle instead of under. Last night I plated the bottom of the mounts with 1/4 steel and welded to the axle this should be fine I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I wondered about incorporating "lift" into the mopunt swap.
Will be following this thread closely, as I have just started the process of acquiring an 86 Waggy for a donor set of 44's.

Gets frustrating, so much cross talk, 30/35's are junk run a 44.
then you hear (read?) 44's are junk really if you plan on running 35 or larger, just start with a 60.

Glad to see someone else is doing what I want to do.
I have seen several rigs with d35 and 35 tires. I don't know how they are for breakage etc. I don't plan on running any biggr than 35 or 36, and I don't get to extreme when I am wheeling. although that might change. I do plan on building a gusset across the housing but am not sure if I will do it now or not. I think I should get it in and see how everything works together before making that desicion. I may end up needing it there to mount my second upper arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
So I am reading a thread on NAXJA this morning and this guy has a deal showing pinion angle per lift hieght. It says I should be about 12 degrees with 8 in lift.:darn: :darn: :darn: :darn: :darn: I set mine at about 6. I am wondering now if I need to cut out those mounts and re-weld them at 12 degrees or if I can get a few more degrees when I adjust the upper arms. It seems like it might put the springs in a sight bind.What do you think? I wish I would have seen that or asked someone before.
 

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I think you realy want to have about 6 degrees in caster if your going drive this down the street if your not worried about street ability then the pinion angle should be somwhere around 10 to 12 degrees at that lift!
 

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Caster angle is more important on a street driven rig and you need to have around 6*
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Worked on this weekend, and a couple nights last week. Put in axle saturday, played around with it a for awhile. Found a few things weren't working right. Had to make a new upper arm, relocate mount, fix spring clamps, re-adjust drag link. Finished all the little B.S. last night and played around for a little while. Left to do on front- hook up shocks, RE-ADJUST drag link:darn: Install flex-brake lines and bleed, get front driveline. 44-2.JPG

44-3.JPG

44-4.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
These are 36-13.50-15 gumbo mudders I am bowowing from my friend untill I get it done, they seem to clear just fine. While driving last night, everything seemed to work together fairly well. Almost forgot, need to build a bump stop.

44-1.JPG

44-5.JPG

I think this will look alot better when back end matches front.
Need 16"x8" wheels w/ 5-6" back space, and 35-36" tires.
 

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That's Wicked Awesome!
 

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You going to put the tie rod over the knuckles??
 
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