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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought a 90 wrangler. I will be replacing the 4.2 L with the EFI 4.0 L. Putting in a T-18 and an Atlas 4.3:1. Already have those out of my old cherokee. Also putting on the Dana 44 and the 30 from the cherokee. I am wondering what some opinions are concering lifts. I am already putting on a 1in body lift to get it off of the previous owners 31's on no lift. As far as springs what's on people's minds? I am on a bit of a budget as most of the money is already gone.
 

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If Money is tight there is really only one answer CUT THE FENDERS. I don't know if you can weld etc but you could cut remove the fenders cut them down reattach to the hood and gain a ton of clearance I don't know much about YJs but I will bet you could get 33s on it without any lift at all. Or you could flatify the fenders. Believe in the cut, be the sawzall the cut off wheel is your freind so am I if you let me cut on your Jeep :firedevi: :firedevi: :rotfl: :rotfl:
 

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4 wheelers supply has a hood that replaces your hood and fenders and you can fit 35s with no lift you will have to seriously trim the rear fenders though :thumb:
 

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I built mine on a budget and so far so good.
My recommendation would be to go with a set of 3.5 BDS springs (lifetime warranty, front leafs on all corners) the 1" BL that you all ready have and then get some used TJ flares and put the sawsall to work.
When I got my springs I just baught the springs and not a full kit, you more then likely just take off the sway bar and track bars so you don't need the drop brackets and other useless crap the kits come with. Just get the leafs and then some longer shocks(DT's are cheap & good) and a drop pitman. I found my drop pitman on ebay for like $25.00. The best deal on BDS leafs I found was @ www.windrockoffroad.com
That was what my budget setup consisted off. I recently added 2" more by means of a SRS kit and custom 3/4 buggy leaf on the rear (which is also very cheap to do)
Here's mine w/ 35's. bottom one is most recent.
Also, I'm up in rexburg for work all the time if you ever need help turning a wrench


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built my 90 yj, but wish I had some of the gear that you are looking at...

what year is the 4.0? the HO are the only ones worth swapping. I only ask because you named a cherokee as the donor. The early cherokees(XJ's) had a crappy FI system, so keep your distance from those.

The T18 is killer for a YJ, good and it goes without saying the atlas is Killer.

Lift - The only way to go is SOA. zero lift springs net you 5.5" lift and the characteristics of the suspension are almost the same. It is far more expensive than a bolt on spring lift -
http://www.gripguru.com/mods/suspension.html
 

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lift options

Spring over, 35" tire. Spring over and a sawzall....40"tire (should move the rear axle back a few inches for the 40's)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The 4.0 is out of my 87 cherokee and is not the high output. I figure it is going to be better than the carberator. Would it be better to leave the 4.2 in? How hard would it be to do the spring over? I am going to put in my d44 out of the cherokee as well so I will probably be changing the perches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Also, with SOA are there any major issues with the steering as far as linkages etc.
 

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You could try the new truck avenger carb for your carbed motor they came out with a 470 (I think) that might be a bit big but should be alright. Could probably sell the fi motor and get money for the carb and a clifford intake. Alot less work too. I don't know alot about YJ steering but on my sami it was an issue also axle wrap was a huge issue consider it manditory to run a traction bar on a SOA. I think in the long run the SOA is more expensive to make work right. But it also more potential than a SUA. Both can work extremly well. On a budget I would go SUA. I still say CUT THE FENDERS!!!! :rotfl: :rotfl:
 

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I second the spring over, it is more work, but well worth the flex. I have seen bone stock YJ's with only a spring over get some mad flex. Make sure if you do it you get your caster right on the front axle, otherwise, driving it will suck. The steering still works on a YJ after SOA too, got two friends that have been running like that for over a year, It rubs the right spring slightly on a hard right turn, but good otherwise. The donor cherokee was already spring over, and since you have some fab work to get the axles to fit, may as well weld the perches on the top! HBRK has some kick ass axle perches for wrangler spring overs that allow you to move the axles one inch from center too.


I know that Full Traction makes a 100% bolt on SOA kit, for those that don't have fabrication skills or equipment.......

I am always a big fan of cutting fenders too!!! That's why I own a plasma, and a cordless sawzall for trail side trimming!!!! :rotfl: :rotfl:


And as far as the 4.0 goes.......Do like I did and ditch it in favor of the Vortec 4.3!!!!!! :rotfl:



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I do in fact know where you can get a vortec 4.3 still in the truck. Talk to AJ if you are interested in that. I have no idea how much he wants for it. :rotfl: :rotfl:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How much do you think I could get for the 4.0. The cherokee had 248000 miles but it was rebuilt before I bought it. I would guess it has about 80000 mile on it now. Also, if i went SUA, what kit would be best to still be able to go on the highway as well as in town?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the warning but I am not intrested in the vortec. I am thinking I will hold on to the 4.2 and fix up the carb. I had a Samurai with a Weber carb and it seemed to work just fine.
 

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AH said:
The 4.0 is out of my 87 cherokee and is not the high output. I figure it is going to be better than the carberator. Would it be better to leave the 4.2 in? How hard would it be to do the spring over? I am going to put in my d44 out of the cherokee as well so I will probably be changing the perches.

Just seems like alot of technical work to put in a booty motor. It is fi and will run better than a carb, but how much time do you have for the swap???
I am sure you will want to dump that motor in the future for a good top end. It is a decision to really think about. Do you have to pass smog tests???

I would swap in a motor in front of that ford tranny that will be powerful enough to really get it. 302's are really nice :thumb:

SOA will give you issues with steering, but there are tons of options for that too. Newer jeep WJ knuckles have a cast arm for high drag link connection, then the tie rod just runs down low. It is bolt on high steer for a jeep 30 front end. Its a really cheap fix in my opinion.

That front end will have coil spring perches from the cherokee, so torching that off for leaf springs will be the hardest part of an SOA. It honestly is sooo easy.
 

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SOA has alot of hidden "fixes" in it to get it right but it kicks butt when your done with it Mountain Off Road Enterprises makes a kickin steering set up for the SOA set up i had it on my 95 and loved it my buddy in CA is running it now it replaces your drag link and tie rod and hooks it all up with heim jonts (sweet) :thumb:
 

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AH said:
. Also, if i went SUA, what kit would be best to still be able to go on the highway as well as in town?
I drive mine on the highway and in town all the time and my BDS springs work great for both and they are more inexpessive then others so it's definitly a good "budget" kit.

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