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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You cut it all off and put coil overs on it :D

We should be finished up with this in about a week or so.

Links are 1.75 .250 DOM, Upper link is 1.5 .250 DOM. Still have steering to build and finish out the suspension of course, but this is in progress :D
 

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Looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thats looking pretty good, how long are the arms?

lowers are 36" eye to eye, and the upper is ~24" eye to eye.

Two ways this suspension is put together.

One is to have the upper link 1/3 the length of the lower, which is the way that RE does there long arm kit.

Second is to make the upper link 2/3 the length of the lower.

The shorter link on top makes the suspension lift when under power, but has a little better road manners.

The longer link works better offroad and makes the front a little more neutral, but still handles nice on the road.


My thought is, I dont want the front of my rig lifting when im trying to climb a ledge. This should still have super nice road manners, and I bet it is way better than stock :D
 

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man that rig looks familiar. i bet the guy that drives that thing is a stud. that is some quality work you are doing on my truck shane and i appreciate it.
 

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I am having fits of envy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
We got some more work done to it, and next time im out at the shop ill get some more pics :D

But here is the pics i did take, on top of these, we put in the cross bar for the shock hoops over the motor.........And there is nothing like opening the hood and seeing the engine, 2 coilovers and a big piece of tube running across the motor :beer:
 

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I really dig it. How many inches seperation did you give to the pass side control arms? That setup would sure simplify my suspension....except for the link material price, the joints, the coilovers and the time involved in setting it up.:rolleyes:

Some day.
 

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Are you going to run the steering on the top side of the knuckles?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are you going to run the steering on the top side of the knuckles?
Nope, the ford knuckles from the F250 were already drilled for the large TRE's from the bottom side. Remember stock steering arms on a ford are cast in higher than chevy's are.

But in reality there is no need to on this....The drag link only sits at 5* of angle.
 

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lowers are 36" eye to eye, and the upper is ~24" eye to eye.

Two ways this suspension is put together.

One is to have the upper link 1/3 the length of the lower, which is the way that RE does there long arm kit.

Second is to make the upper link 2/3 the length of the lower.

The shorter link on top makes the suspension lift when under power, but has a little better road manners.

The longer link works better offroad and makes the front a little more neutral, but still handles nice on the road.


My thought is, I dont want the front of my rig lifting when im trying to climb a ledge. This should still have super nice road manners, and I bet it is way better than stock :D
Maybe I don't fully understand how this type of suspension works, but why does it matter how long the top link is? Since the top link ties into the bottom link doesn't it work basically the same as a radius arm suspension without the bind?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Maybe I don't fully understand how this type of suspension works, but why does it matter how long the top link is? Since the top link ties into the bottom link doesn't it work basically the same as a radius arm suspension without the bind?
the length of the upper link changes the torque applied to the axle and chassis, this will create or reduce the amount of lift or squat your suspension has.

When this is complete and wheeling, I will give a full report on what I think of this design and show pics of how it wheels and flexes. This is my first time putting together one of these, other than installing TJ long arm kits. I have heard good things about it from shops I know that have done this. I am hoping the front of this wheels better than a long arm jeep too :D
 

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the length of the upper link changes the torque applied to the axle and chassis, this will create or reduce the amount of lift or squat your suspension has.

When this is complete and wheeling, I will give a full report on what I think of this design and show pics of how it wheels and flexes. This is my first time putting together one of these, other than installing TJ long arm kits. I have heard good things about it from shops I know that have done this. I am hoping the front of this wheels better than a long arm jeep too :D
Yeah, I was thinking about it after I posted and I was starting to wonder if that's how it worked. I would imagine vertical separation would have a lot to do with it as well. What are the odds the torque of the axle would bend the lower link? How do you compensate for all the torque being force through that one link? I've seen this style suspension several times before but never really looked at how they work.
 

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But then again, most leaf spring axles have one side that bolts to the housing and not the axle tube itself. So maybe it is not a problem.
Actually I would think that would be the most effective way to keep from having tubes twist in a housing. You have the tube being held by one spring and a housing being held by the other. It's really the housing that is trying to move, not the tube itself. I wonder if it would have been better to build a bracket off the top of the housing to attach the third link to? I guess that would put a lot of stress on a piece of cast though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The work does look killer though, and way better than the typical old radius arm setup..

Thanks Lumpy,

The axle tube will twist in this housing if you dont weld the axle tubes to the center section. Any more anytime I do a link suspension I will weld the tubes to the housing, just to stop any problems.

And the passenger side is the tube that will usually tquist. The link on the passenger side will not allow the tube to move, but the center section, if it breaks the stock plug welds, will rotate under force.
 
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