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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
this might be just me smokin crack...there, I admitted it, so keep yer wise-ass comments to yourself! :flipoff:

BUT
how hard would it be to graft a ford 9" centersection to a yota axle? would it be worth it? aren't HP 9" thirds cheaper than yotas?
just something that popped in my head today, and I wanted to see what y'all think as far as pros and cons.
 

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AJ Johnson said:
how hard would it be to graft a ford 9" centersection to a yota axle? would it be worth it? aren't HP 9" thirds cheaper than yotas?
No, the only HP 9" 3rd member worth a damn is the true HI 9. $2,000 to get you in the door, up to like $2800 with 35 spline ARB. The currie HP 3rd is still around $1,000, rated for 35" tire max. Now, a Toy center with 9" outers, there's an idea.
 

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yeah but toy pinions are weak....and break easily with the right person behind the wheel. Have a friend that has grenaded a dozen of them already. oh that's right he has a 350.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Custom said:
shut-up your dumb!!!! just use a early bronco housing, 9" center and 6 lug shafts!!!
hmmm...
I was thinking front axle..:gay:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
as far as breaking the gears... I was going to buy a set from Bobby Long that have been heat treated and cryoed.
This isn't something I'm seriously considering, just an idea I had that I wanted to throw out and see what you guys thought too.
 

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The yota knuckles aren't the strongest either. Probably more of a PITA than it would be worth. Just get off the crack pipe and buy a 60, oh wait you already had one that was built and you SOLD it!
 

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Al - it would be easier to put the toy ends on a 9" housing....
Im not sure what all the hype is about toy center sections either -- Thats one of my biggest sellers because of failure I even have a guy come from south america once or twice a year to buy as many as he can.....

Let me know if you want to try it, I would have to build the end pieces for the my axle jig but thats no problem. We are about to build a trick D60 for Lumpys Jeep -- Full floater with 6 bolt wheels, disc brakes.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
krazytoy said:
The yota knuckles aren't the strongest either. Probably more of a PITA than it would be worth. Just get off the crack pipe and buy a 60, oh wait you already had one that was built and you SOLD it!
lol... yeah, so? I can do it again if I want to! :flipoff:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ontherocks said:
Al - it would be easier to put the toy ends on a 9" housing....
Im not sure what all the hype is about toy center sections either -- Thats one of my biggest sellers because of failure I even have a guy come from south america once or twice a year to buy as many as he can.....

Let me know if you want to try it, I would have to build the end pieces for the my axle jig but thats no problem. We are about to build a trick D60 for Lumpys Jeep -- Full floater with 6 bolt wheels, disc brakes.......
Lets talk about this some more.. the 9" has some versions that use 30 spline shafts, right? If so, then just use toy shafts, and like you said, put the toy ends on the 9" housing. what about axle seals? is there a machined surface for that seal that would have to be dealt with?
what about welding the toy ends on, given the design of the toy ends, how would they be welded on and still be strong? they aren't like Dana type axles where the tube is pressed into the inner "C".
 

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No 30 spline stuff for the 9" 28 and 31 only -- Ever try a 30 spline yota shaft in a 30 spline D44??? How about HP 44 with yota outer stuff!!!
I do know they make a kit to put internal oil seals in a 9" Ford...
I would probably use a short sleeve in the inner tube and slip the outer steering knuckle over that, weld around the outside rear of the knuckle and inside of the sleeve both (just going of the top of my head what a toy steering end looks like):darn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I'm not sure what you are thinking with welding the end.. lemme see if I can find a pic of a toy housing.
I like the idea of a HP D44 centersection.. bigger selection of lockers, gears, etc. I wonder how R&P strength and sizes compare?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
maybe grind the weld off here... Is this ball buttwelded on, or is it sleeved?
 

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I would say the ball is slid into the housing tube and welded --- What does the ball tube measure? What does the housing tube measure?
It looks like there is enough tube left on the ball to use as a slide into another tube.............
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
dunno... I'll hafta go do some measuring soon.
I wish I had one apart to check the inside.
I wonder if they machine the tube's ID so that it is flush on the inside?
Steve, if you read this, could you check your empty housing for us?
 

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The ends slide into the housing ends, they are a press fit to keep it all straight (kinda). There is about 3/4" to 1" of metal that slides into the axle housing. The knuckles are not that difficult to cut out, I don't know the knuckle OD off the top of my head. Does a 44 spring mount to the cast part of the centersection like a 60? I don't think it does, but I don't remember. I have a feeling that the ID of the 44 tube may be bigger than the OD of the toy knuckle. But we could always retube the 44 with some 1/2" thick cromo tubeing and turn the ends down to the Toy knuckle OD and machine in some seal surfaces at the center section. The Toy has a seal at the end of the tube inside the knuckle. It may work, but I still ask why? The 44 center section will be stronger than the Toy, but the toy knuckles still have the tiny trunion (sp?) bearings that are a weak point especially with any tire over a 35. Also the studs at the hi steer arms like to shear, I know someone is making a 6 stud knuckle but I don't know who. The other thing to keep in mind is the cast center section of the 44 is not that strong, I have seen many break right in half. I would prefer the steel center section over the cast anyday. Why not build a 9" center section and use the Toy outers and custon shafts like the birf eliminator? I think this would be WAY better than the 44. I know it could be done, but I still think your pissin' in the wind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Jason, I think you are right on most aspects with what you are saying. For me, this is more of a information gathering "what if" type of thing. I think that if I was breaking toy axles, either I would get another 60, or a toy "Diamond" axle. Depends on wha I was breaking, I guess.. It's just interesting to get a discussion going and see what others' opinions are.


BTW.. yer still a fawktard. :flipoff:

As far as I know, it's Marlin who is making the 6 stud knuckles. The thing that I like the most about toy axles, is the Birfields. Granted, the stock ones are kinda weak, but so are the stockers on most other axles. If you use the 30 spline longfields, they are comparable in strength to the D60 with a much higher twist before shearing. The main thing that I like about Birfields, is the angle they can turn at. Its much higher than a u-joint, 47*, I think is what Bobby long recommends. and much stronger at angle as well. Another benefit is that when turning, you don't get that "hop" like U-joint based axles get. IMO, Birfs are a better design.
 

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AJ Johnson said:
Jason, I think you are right on most aspects with what you are saying. For me, this is more of a information gathering "what if" type of thing. I think that if I was breaking toy axles, either I would get another 60, or a toy "Diamond" axle. Depends on wha I was breaking, I guess.. It's just interesting to get a discussion going and see what others' opinions are.


BTW.. yer still a fawktard. :flipoff:
You had better be nice or those Aussie lockers may come up missing or better yet installed backward! :darn: AJ we can build ya what ever you want, I have been tossing around the idea of fabin' up a housing like a diamond axle, but better. More of a Chrisman type like the trophy trucks run. No axle tubes octogonal all the way to the knuckles. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
krazytoy said:
You had better be nice or those Aussie lockers may come up missing or better yet installed backward! :darn: AJ we can build ya what ever you want, I have been tossing around the idea of fabin' up a housing like a diamond axle, but better. More of a Chrisman type like the trophy trucks run. No axle tubes octogonal all the way to the knuckles. :thumb:
now, THAT's an axle I would like to do. I was talking to steve about building a diamond type, but I think I like your idea better.. Lets hear some more about what you have in mind!
 

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I could tell you, but then I would have to kill you! :shame:
 
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