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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys gotta couple pics to show you and see if you can tell what it is.
Got a block stamp# a picture of the heads and some more #s on the inside between the heads. Be specific if you can. The stamp says its a 350 how bout the heads and everything else? is this a good motor to rebuild? the blurry # is 14010207

WB








 

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Have to tear it apart to see if it's "buildable".
 

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The block # says it is a Chevy 350 out of a passenger car from '80-'84.

The heads look like double hump heads that are performance heads from the 60's. Pull the valve cover and get the number under to ID them better. They are non hardend seats and I've gotton about 20K out of them before they went.

It also has a points disti buts thats easy to upgrade.



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Looks like a 327 out of a Vet. Should be about 500HP:thumb:

Get it apart and see what everything looks like inside then you'll know it you have a good builder or not.
 

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heres what my source list says....

14010207...350...80-85...2 or 4 bolt main

no listing for any other numbers in the second to last location.


So pull the valve covers and get the numbers off the heads, and I'd pull the pan, check 2 or 4 bolt main, once you know what you have, you can go from there.
 

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I agree with what was said above. #1 priority for me would be to make sure it has 4 bolt main bearing caps on the crank. The double hump heads are good ones but you do want to have the valve seats hardened so you can run unleaded fuel. I would replace the distributor with an HEI unit or at the very least replace the points and condenser with a Pertronix Flame Thrower ignition. I use the Pertronix on my 72 Blazer and it works great. It cost less than $90 and I haven't had to even look and the ignition for almost 2 years (with points I was constantly reseting the points gap and dwell).
Now I know a lot of people out there hate the quadrajet carb. But I've run one now for 5 years with only one rebuild and few problems. IMO the simpler the better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks like a 327 out of a Vet. Should be about 500HP:thumb:

Get it apart and see what everything looks like inside then you'll know it you have a good builder or not.

That is what the guy said! But the numbers say otherwise. Guess Ill have to crack it open and see whats inside. Thanks for the replys.

W.B
 

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Ya thats why allot of those old cars are worth so much money now. To many people just took the motors out then junked the cars. I have always thought there must be a big junkyard someware with miles of muscle cars piled up just needing a motor.:idea:
 

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If you do decide to rebuild it... junk the heads. You can buy an aftermarket set with harden seats, screw in studs, guide plates, larger valves, and ready to bolt on for what you'll spend redoing those. As for 2 bolt verses 4, they're only really stronger if thier splayed. I'm runnig a 2 bolt in a street/strip car (6 years now) without any issues. You'll have build a lot of power to take out solid 2 bolt.
 

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If you do decide to rebuild it... junk the heads. You can buy an aftermarket set with harden seats, screw in studs, guide plates, larger valves, and ready to bolt on for what you'll spend redoing those. As for 2 bolt verses 4, they're only really stronger if thier splayed. I'm runnig a 2 bolt in a street/strip car (6 years now) without any issues. You'll have build a lot of power to take out solid 2 bolt.
You are right about the 2 bolt vs 4 bolt. Don Moffitt and Pat Bratton (of Moffitt & Bratton Racing Engines) had an "interesting" conversation one day while I was at their shop. Don felt the 2 bolts were fine because they had more metal around the bolts compared to 4 bolts. Pats' reply was the same as yours about the splayed bolts.

For their day the double hump heads were very good. I ran them on a 327 in my '63 Impala and surprised many 429 Mustangs. But todays aftermarket aluminum heads can't be beat, they flow soooo much better. However, with that said I have seen worked over cast heads kick the you know what out of our aluminum headed 383 we used to run. It just takes $$$$
 

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Nice motor Christopher,

Pretty soon you will have a couple of dozen like us.

I would clean the heads up and post them on ebay or something. Even if they are a 202 small chamber ( and they may not be, the double hump heads came in several valve sizes) it will take a lot more money to rebuild them right then it would be to buy a set of aftermarket heads. To someone who has a car and wants original performance heads they are worth a few dollars. The block apears from the numbers to be a 350. As for two bolt or four bolt its argued both ways for strenth. I personally prefer a studded two bolt to a bolted four bolt. Unless its a splayed main, and you cannot splay a factory four bolt.

Now it still could be a 327 displacement motor. It just takes a crank and rods. Pull the heads off and measure from the top of the piston to the block deck with the piston at the bottom of its stroke.
 

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The other thing to consider with those heads is that they are for the short water pump. They don't have the bolt holes in the heads to run the long pump factory accessories. I did it once...but had to build new brackets...pain in the a%%.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys for the replys. Lots of info here. I still havent gotten the valve covers off to check the numbers on the heads.....Not that it really matters Im not gonna use them. from the sounds of things I need to spend money on better ones anyway. Glen the ebay thing or even Craigs list is a good Idea. I actually have lots of stuff piling up at the moment. Nothing that compares to your pile though. BTW great Burgers and Brats. If anybody has any interest in these heads after I find out exactly what I have , (will post here first) let me know, we will work somthing out.

W.B
 
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