[Lavacrawler]

well I decided to get off my a$$ and start the rebuild of the 8.8 I've had sitting in the garage for almost a year, so far I have the spider pin and c-clips out...yada,yada,yada. But for the life of me I cannot get the damn drums off of the shoes. I get them far enough that I can see about a 1/4" of the shoes but the drum sticks and as I pry or pound the shoes and whole system wants to come with them.
The axle did sit outside of a shed under a tarp for awhile last spring in boise, so the drums do have a good amount of rust on them.
So any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated :thumb:
Thanks
Cory

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[Lumpdog]

Sounds like you just need to get the adjusters backed off and release the pressure off the drum!



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[Lavacrawler]

I saw the adjusters but wasn't sure which way to spin them,do I thread them out or in to loosen?

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[Sandman]

I just had to change all the lugs on the 8.8 on my Bronco and it was a pain to get the drum off. I basically just kept punding it on each side with the sledge until it went. I also used a crowbar when I could get one in there.

Backing off the adjustment is a good idea.



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[Ryansbronco]

long shot but a large well freak'n big gear puller worked on my 9"
also you might hit the breaks a few times to try to loosen the pads
do not be a mudduck and leave the e-brake on
rlol I have been there done that :banghead:

 

[wetnsloppy4x]

If you're going through the adjuster slot, you need to be pushing up on your screwdriver in order to turn the wheel clockwise on the driver side (as viewed from rear). The pass. side will be spinning counter-clockwise if you're prying up. You may need another small screwdriver to push the adjuster arm off the wheel.

You could always pry the snot out of it. The only thing you may hurt is the hold down springs and pins. Drum hardware is cheap.

 

[Lavacrawler]

I went ahead and soaked the $hit out of them with PB Blaster and was able to coax them off with a BFH. Only damage was to one brake shoe, which was worn out anyways

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