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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive got a 305 sitting in my carport on an engine stand. There was ALOT of thick oil sludge built up in the top end, BUT after removing the intake, heads, and oil pan, I discovered that there was no sludge on the bottom end. The cylinder walls feel smooth and everything. I could grab the connecting rods by their caps and barely move them. The movement was almost non-existant. Thing is, I dont know just how much slack there should be in them, and stuff like that.

So, down to the question. What kinds of measurements should I take to tell whether or not it needs a rebuild?
 

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Get some plastigage and check the tolerances. You should be able to find the acceptable specs in a repair manual or maybe online somewhere.
 

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Also look at the cylinder walls there should be a crosshatch pattern on them. If there is that is good if there isn't not so bad you can get a hone and do it yourself. Check the tops of the cylinder walls there should be a step there if there isn't very good if there is make sure to get a ridge reamer to get rid of it. If you really want to go the distance pull one of the pistons very carefully and take the top ring off and put it in the cylinder bore and measure this with a feeler gauge. Check all those things against spec plus the plastigauge and you will know probably more than you want to about your engine. There is always the ******* rebuild but new bearings and rings in it redo the heads if only absolutely nessecary hone for a crosshatch ( true ******** use a very fine grit sandpaper) and call er good. I helped a buddy do this to a 440 dodge (we used the sandpaper) and it lasted nearly 80,000 miles and it ran good and didn't use much oil about a quart every 3000 miles :rotfl: :rotfl:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How much of a ridge am I allowed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I borrowed a ridge reamer from one of my friends, and when I sent that last message, I was using it hooked up to a drill. Then I realized I was just making the ridge out-of-round, so I finally got some sense about me, and tightened it down until I could barely move it, and used it the right way! :roll:

Well... that is how you use it right? I figure so since it got rid of that ridge... :roll:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay, Im rebuilding the heads at Vo-Tech now. It took all afternoon today just to get the friggin things clean!!

So, I need to do the following?:

-Rebuild heads(In Progress)
-Hone cylinders and re-ring
-Replace camshaft bearings(polish or turn camshaft?)
-Replace crankshaft bearings(polish or turn crankshaft?)
-Replace connecting rod bearings
-Replace timing chain & gears(Depending on shape of gears and chain?)
-Replace ALL gaskets and seals
-Check oilpump(maybe rebuild?)

Anything else? 8)
 

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If the camshaft is worn out you will need to replace it. I would also suggest getting a new timing set and new oil pump. They both cost around $20/ea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks. Will do.

By the way, anybody know how to wire up an electronic Q-Jet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, do I need the wires and stuff?
 

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ya, unfortunately, you do... If you can get ahold of a non electronic one, that's what I'd do....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think luck just shined upon me! Today, at my Diesel Tech class, a 85 Chevy just rolled in with a 305 and, you guessed it, an electronic Q-Jet! I will be taking notes on the where the wires go and stuff.

Plus, I will be rebuilding it, so I will get a good idea on that too. :thumb:
 

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While you are rebuilding it take a look at taking all the electronic stuff off. The parts Blazer that I have is an 85 w/305 and if I ever get around to it I would like to pull the carb and build it to put on my 73 but only if I can succesfully take all the electrics off. Good luck man Quadrajets are awesome carbs when they are working right. :thumb: :rotfl:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
As long as it all works, I have no problem with electronic junk.

Ill finish my head today, and start on the block Monday. So hopefully, in a couple of weeks, I will be ready to rebuild the carb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well boys, I got lucky! Very lucky! Rings and bearings are all in GREAT shape! We mic'ed them all today after we tore it down, and found very little wear in any of them. Theyve still got a good 150,000 miles on them before a rebuild will even be necessary. The reason it looked so bad is because it was probably running Pennzoil or some other sludge-causing oil. Plus, the valve guide seals had begun to leak, and it caused an oil buildup on the pistons and heads. This made them look like they had a major carbon problem, but it all just washed off with in the parts washer. SO, now all Ive got to do is paint it and put it back together! :thumb:

This means my S-10 4x4 will be done in just a month or so. Im so happy! Ill be able to relieve my Nissan Patrol of its daily driver duties, and do that disc brake conversion, SOA, and everything else soon! :mrgreen:

Ive got to admit, I miss the hell out my S-10! :roll:
 

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hey, how hard is it to convert a S10 to solid front axle?
I know where I can find an s10 that is like a 92 extended cab that someone hopped a barrow pit with and messed the front suspension all up. It has the 700R4 and the 4.3 vortec motor for $500
 
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