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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am getting ready to order and build the rear suspension on my landcruiser and was wondering what had works best for crawling and street driving or if there is a difference. the 3 link seems simpler to set up, but do you get more flex out of one or the other. i have seen the setup like prerunners user with the upper link that only mounts at one point on the axle but splits up and goes to two bushings on the frame, do these work good for crawling. any help would be great.
-Andy
 

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Since I've always wondered this myself, Shane, could you elaborate a bit? Like...why is the four link better than the three?

I understand your length stipulation and can guess at the triangulation reasoning, but why are you preferential to flat? No...the better question what do you mean by "flat" (assuming its not as simple as choosing a flat surface over tubing...I don't think you're saying that) and then why do you prefer flat?

-Mikey-
 

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I think flat is good because at ride height the suspension will want to push the chassis forward instead of trying to crawl under it.
 

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Since I've always wondered this myself, Shane, could you elaborate a bit? Like...why is the four link better than the three?

I understand your length stipulation and can guess at the triangulation reasoning, but why are you preferential to flat? No...the better question what do you mean by "flat" (assuming its not as simple as choosing a flat surface over tubing...I don't think you're saying that) and then why do you prefer flat?

-Mikey-

Flat means as close to parallel with the ground as possible for the reason Redmist said in the previous post.

I have a three link in the rear, and it works fine for me.
 

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4 links in the rear are easier for the normal guy to build. They work very well, and if you follow the basic rules that i posted....you wont have any axle steer either. It is very tough to get a neutral 3 link rear set up, and it is even tougher to get rid of the axle steer.

Flat = Parallel to th the ground but still using round tubing.
And BTW, IMO ~ 36-42" is an ideal length for your links.
 

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This is some of the info that I will be needing for the Comanche build we discussed a little Shane.
Cool stuff.
 

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correct both upper and lower mounts are at an angle creating triangulation which helps to keep the axle from moving side to side.



Here are the links paralell to the ground and to each other. This would be neutral in squat.





Here it is in full flex notice how there is very little rear steer. With some tweaking you could eliminate all rear steer.




Also notice that the pinion angle stays constant with this setup?

maximum droop


Maximum stuff
 

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Damn T! Nice design. Is that a program or did you do that yourself?
 

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Cool Tony! Looks familiar....oh yeah, it's what Shane built for me, it's on my Jeep!! Looks great, works even better!!
 

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Damn nice T!


You guys and your paralell links to the ground and what not!

My leaf springs in the rear should be almost flat after it sits for a couple more weeks on jack stands! and they are almost paralell to the ground now also!




Can't wait till next season so I can link the ass end of my project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
so shane, when you build the double triangulated 4 link are you using about 10" of seperating at the axle and frame mounts. with my front 3 link i have about 10" at the axle and 5" at the frame. I did it that way because that seems to be the way most people ended up doing it.
 

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Another question: What angle should your links be in relation to the axle housing? ... the frame? I see 22degrees and 17degrees, or does it really even matter? Just get everything to fit?

I think I just about have this figured out. My jeep is going to be really LOW and really wide, and really 60d :goodjob:
 

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This is making serious mucho sense now. I need to stare and think some more, though. I'm trying to picture how to get the links flat on the crossmember/skidplate end, because I can't see having a lot of vertical separation there. It'd probably be easier for me to picture lying underneath my TJ than sitting here in front of this monitor...

Thanks for the graphics, Tony. That helped quite a bit.

-Mikey-
 

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I use the 6-8" of separation rule. 10" seems a bit excessive but if it works for you then great.

You are correct with the front closing the gap at the chassis side. It helps the tires dig in harder in the front.

And Nate, it is a rear, either angle is enough. For the front with a steering box, you would want more.
 

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4 links in the rear are easier for the normal guy to build. They work very well, and if you follow the basic rules that i posted....you wont have any axle steer either. It is very tough to get a neutral 3 link rear set up, and it is even tougher to get rid of the axle steer.

Flat = Parallel to th the ground but still using round tubing.
And BTW, IMO ~ 36-42" is an ideal length for your links.
Do you have a link to the original post that contains the basic rules? I remember reading them, but don't remember the thread. I am getting ready to start a 4 link project and these rules would be very helpful. I have been thinking about it for a long time but hopefully I am getting close to actually doing something.
 

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Do you have a link to the original post that contains the basic rules? I remember reading them, but don't remember the thread. I am getting ready to start a 4 link project and these rules would be very helpful. I have been thinking about it for a long time but hopefully I am getting close to actually doing something.
All the information you need is already in this post.
 
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