TJ need help

[boggertime]

OK here is what I want to do to my TJ but I'm not experianced when it comes to jeep parts. First off I want a 6" to 8" lift that is gonna give me lots of clearance and flex for the trails....but at the same time I want to be able to drive this rig on the street. I was also looking into ProComp (or as some call them ProCrap) Xterrains 33x12.50x15 w/ crager wheels. Eventually when I can I want to upgrade the axles front I'm thinking Dana 30 and rear Dana 44 w/ 4 wheel disks and I'm leaning towards air lockers and 3.73 gears. With all this in mind I'm trying to figure out all the stock parts I will have to replace I know I need a SYE kit and CV driveshaft kit for anything over a 5" suspension lift....anything else I should know about other than some cutting and some welding?

[nate]

6-8" of lift is way too much for 33s... Don't need much lift on TJs to fit larger tires.

A 2" budject boost and a 1" body lift would clear the 33s, maybe a little bit of rubbing. My buddy ran a 1" BL and 3.5" RE kit with 35" BFGs on his TJ. Worked great for how simple/cheap the lift was.


You need to decide what sized tires to run, and that will determine how much lift, and also if the stock axles will be ok. I would say 33s for that D35.

[Mr.TRD]

Also might want to reconsider the 3.73's and go to at least a 4.10 gear set. Plenty streetable still and if it was me, I would go with 4.56's or 4.88's just for the off road capabilities and sacrafice some rpm on the highway, especially if you ever think about going to a bigger tire.

[mntbch]

4.56 is the min I would go for 33's. I have 4.56 and 35's and wish I had taller gears. Next axles will probably get 5.13s

[nate]

Yeah I run 4.88 with 36s and I still don't have enough power to use Overdrive on the highway. Stupid 4.slow :darn:

[r1 squid]

I have a 2" body lift and a 7" susp. and I'm running 38s and 4.88s
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/freedom5/38s001Small.jpg

[Rudezuk]

The RE long arm 5.5 kit with some minor trimming and or an additional spacer will fit 37's
The 4.5" kit will fit 35's
and the 3.5' kit will fit 33's

If you wheel i wouldnt go over 33's on the stock axles...They wont hold up.

But if you want to wheel,spend the money for the long arm 3.5" kit, put some 33's on there, and you will love it. When you want to go bigger, all you have to do is change the springs out and maybe some shocks :D

[JoshH]

After seeing how the RE short arm kit works on the front of Chris' cherokee, I think what Shane is suggesting is the way to go. You should get some crazy flex and plenty of room for 33s.

[MudHog01]

I GOT 3.73 AND A 4" SUSP LIFT AND GAS MILES SUCK ASS!:drive:

DANA 30 WILL MAX OUT WITH 4.88 GEARS AND U'LL BE PUSHIN IT WITH 37S IN TIRES:cussing:


FORGET TO TELL U -I GOT THE 4" STAGE 1 PRO COMP -I ALSO HAVE ALL SWAY BARS OFF THE JEEP AND SHE DOES PRETTY GOOD - JUST CHECK THE VIDS OUT - THIS MIGHT HELP WITH YOUR DECISION MAKIN-BOTTOM OF PAGE ONE http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2354920

BUT KNOWIN WHAT I DO NOW - I GO WITH THE LONG ARM KITS

[RJR-Jason]

The RE longarm kit is great. We put one on an 05 rubicon and it gets around great sitting on 35" tires. If you're wanting something a little cheaper that will fit 33's, you might take a look at the pro-comp 4" kit. Of course it won't perform like a longarm setup.

http://www.rjroffroad.com/Explorer-Pro-Comp-lift-kit-for-Jeep-Unlimited-Wrangler-TJ-97-06-c-346-p-1-pr-16574.html

[MudHog01]

All Ways Hearing Nice Comments About The Re Lifts!!!!

[CaSea4Me]

Check out what Currie has to offer! I hope ur planning on doing some engine work too cause with what u want to do, u'll be lucky to make it up a moderate grade at hwy speeds w/o dropping down into 3rd gear or lower. Just my 2 cents :)

[ROKSTAR29]

I think it depends on the use of the jeep. If you go anything over 4" of lift and you use it off road i would think about doing the sye and tail shaft conversion kit. With the short arm kits you will be able to drive on the street and get good handling, but they are designed for up travel and you will experience a little bit of wheel hop on some off camber terrains. The long are kit is designed for down travel and will eliminate wheel hop but i don't think they handle as well on the road. With any of the kits over 4" you will want adjustable upper control arms and definately a pitman arm. I like to run the sye and tail shaft with a 1" body lift and a belly lift. This will allow some awsome ground clearance with good off road capability. The gearing issue will depend on the engine you are running. If a 4.0 with 33" i would run a 4.10 gear. If a 4 banger i would look into some 4.56 or higher. Hope this helps!:drive:

[RJR-Jason]

Its not on the site yet, but if you need Rubicon Express stuff, I can get you some decent deals on the lift kits or whatever else you need. Actually anything you can think of, just ask.

[boggertime]

Wow I didn't know I had that many replies just so everyone knows I purchased the RE 4.5" long arm kit, and me and a friend took a day to install it and I couldn't be happier this kit is amazing :bowdown:! Sorry this is like my second time checking this thread I haven't had a chance to get on in a long time I've been working a lot but thank you all for the help I guess I'm going to get 4.56 gearset and try to find a better set of tires. I got a set of old crager 16's and I found a set of older 35x12.5x16 Bogger TSL's looking for some new tires now....lol

[Nukegumby]

I put 3.25" lift (2.5" springs and .75" spacers) on my TJ and 33s fit fine. I can turn tighter than I could previously for some reason. Only prob was the stock rear track bar - had to turn it into an adjustable length track bar to get it to fit again. I'm getting vibration off the front driveline at about 65 MPH, but it's not terrible. Since I put on LTBs, it fits nicely with the Panzer-like ride they provide. Any higher and I'd go with an SYE.

You can probably put 37s on a Dana 30 - as long as you don't put a locker in it and don't ever crank the steering wheel in 4 low and touch the gas pedal. Even then I'd think their lifetime would be severly limited. Naw...I'd stick to 33s with both the D-30 and the D-35c. If you put the Jeep version of the D-44 under it you're still probably limited to 35s because it's still running through those scrawny D-35 tubes.

RE gets great press...all the time...period. I've never heard of or read one complaint about them. RockKrawler has a nicle looking lift, but I have never seen one in person. Their fullsized lift kits got a lot of good press from one of the Primedia rags. Fabtech's Crawler (8") is supposed to be good on rocks and the street, but the subframe looks to cut two inches into your breakover. Maybe it's not that far, but it looks like it.

If you're looking for good show - I dunno. I don't get the mindset. If you want performance, then think about safety, strength, flex, and then power. In that order, IMO. Worry about a solid cage around you before you sweat 8" of lift. Make sure you have axles, and brakes, that'll handle the big tires before or alongside the big tires. When you have it all, then I'd probably recommend the long arm LCG...6", I think it is...by Teraflex. Big flex, smooth driving, and the extras like SYE/rear driveshaft/and more comes with if you buy the "Extreme" version. Ain't cheap, but then what you were talking about in the beginning isn't either. And I think you can only push 37s with a 6 inch lift on a TJ. Unless you wanna pull off the fenders and go with full length one ton axles - then you've room to spare up to...some point. I don't have a clue where.

-Mikey-

[nate]

As for keepign the front end alive, it really depends on how you wheel it. In Alaska, we ran 37"-38" TSLs and Boggers on the D30s without many issues.

My D30 under the ZJ has an ARB. I'm running Q78 TSLs (basically a 36") and it's still going. I did weld the u Joints in the shafts cause they were spitting the caps out, but it hasn't been an issue since. Course I keep shaft shafts with me just in case too.